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Old 10-20-2004, 06:30 AM
  #31  
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hey coxy, you said you balance the car on pins first, is this possible with non xray if not do you know of an alternative.
thanks
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Old 10-20-2004, 04:00 PM
  #32  
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Originally posted by ausracer
hey coxy, you said you balance the car on pins first, is this possible with non xray if not do you know of an alternative.
thanks
I don't understand the question?????

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Old 10-20-2004, 10:33 PM
  #33  
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sorry about the wording i was in a hurry.
a few posts up you said

'But before that I balance the chassis fully loaded on pins to make sure the chassis is dead on before I set the scales up.'

i would like to know if it is possible to do this for cars other then the xray. if it can be done could you please tell me how. if not is there an alternative way of making sure the chassis is balanced left to right before using scales
thanks alot
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Old 10-20-2004, 11:20 PM
  #34  
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Originally posted by ausracer
sorry about the wording i was in a hurry.
a few posts up you said

'But before that I balance the chassis fully loaded on pins to make sure the chassis is dead on before I set the scales up.'

i would like to know if it is possible to do this for cars other then the xray. if it can be done could you please tell me how. if not is there an alternative way of making sure the chassis is balanced left to right before using scales
thanks alot
Ok I thought that's what you meant.

Turn the car upside down. Mark a center line down the middle of the chassis running from front to rear with a pen. Get two nails and hammer them into a setup board. Sit the chassis/car (right way up) on the nails on the line you marked on the chassis.

If it does not fall to either side then go to sleep happy. If not, time to get the lead out and start piling weight on until it sits level. If it falls to the left put weight on the right. Just sit it on don't stick it on. Remember the further the weight is away from the chassis center line the less weight you will need.

Then you might go a step further and see if it need it on the right front or right rear. Do this as above but do the line from the left to right half way down the chassis.



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Old 10-20-2004, 11:34 PM
  #35  
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thank you very much for your help, i will try this soon.
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Old 10-21-2004, 08:25 PM
  #36  
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Thanx for everyones input....

I managed to get a MIP tweak station from a friend.........just out of curiosity to see if it makes much difference...

The verdict:-

Not much difference at all.
If you have your droop settings EXACTLY even left to right, then the knife method will yield the same results to the tweak station.

Personally, i'd prefer knife method because its much quicker.

I also found that was it very important to have a dummy transponder on the car. 22g's does make alot of difference, cuz i've found a difference of up to 1 full turn of preload on one shock (or 1/2 a turn if you adjust them both sides). Obviously it wouldnt matter much for guys who have it mounted in the centre.


Coxy, DFC, Wombat,
Thanx for your inputs, but i still had to try for myself to see how much of a difference it would make.
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Old 10-21-2004, 08:30 PM
  #37  
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Originally posted by nam_tc3

I also found that was it very important to have a dummy transponder on the car. 22g's
just as a cheap alternative a 50 cent coin and a 20 cent coin weigh the same as a transponder, so you can use this instead of buying a dummy transponder. nice cheap trick
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Old 10-21-2004, 09:30 PM
  #38  
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just as a cheap alternative a 50 cent coin and a 20 cent coin weigh the same as a transponder, so you can use this instead of buying a dummy transponder. nice cheap trick
Or do wat i do.....borrow it from someone and dont return it..........save yourself 20c

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Old 10-21-2004, 10:04 PM
  #39  
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Originally posted by nam_tc3
Or do wat i do.....borrow it from someone and dont return it..........save yourself 20c

So that's where it went

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