LRP SXX ESC Repair in AU??
#1
LRP SXX ESC Repair in AU??
I have a SXX TC Spec speedy that's blown a phase, she's not all that old and was wondering if there is a repair place in AU.
TIA
Cheers
LJ
TIA
Cheers
LJ
#2
Theres a fellow racer who can look and maybe repair it
who races at windsor nsw just contact Windsor hobbies they may have his no. or put u in the right direction
#4
Nah... didn't do that...
It just decided to pop... I initally thought that it was the motor but on further investigation it turned out to be the speedy.
If you hook up a motor to it.. it will still turn but makes a really really rough sound.. a bit like the prize wheel from Pluck a Duck spinning. And if the motor stops in the wrong place, it won't spin up unless you give it a little help, then it goes again.
Mind you.. I'm no electronics geek so me saying "it's a blown phase" is just an assumption.
It just decided to pop... I initally thought that it was the motor but on further investigation it turned out to be the speedy.
If you hook up a motor to it.. it will still turn but makes a really really rough sound.. a bit like the prize wheel from Pluck a Duck spinning. And if the motor stops in the wrong place, it won't spin up unless you give it a little help, then it goes again.
Mind you.. I'm no electronics geek so me saying "it's a blown phase" is just an assumption.
#5
Nah... didn't do that...
It just decided to pop... I initally thought that it was the motor but on further investigation it turned out to be the speedy.
If you hook up a motor to it.. it will still turn but makes a really really rough sound.. a bit like the prize wheel from Pluck a Duck spinning. And if the motor stops in the wrong place, it won't spin up unless you give it a little help, then it goes again.
Mind you.. I'm no electronics geek so me saying "it's a blown phase" is just an assumption.
It just decided to pop... I initally thought that it was the motor but on further investigation it turned out to be the speedy.
If you hook up a motor to it.. it will still turn but makes a really really rough sound.. a bit like the prize wheel from Pluck a Duck spinning. And if the motor stops in the wrong place, it won't spin up unless you give it a little help, then it goes again.
Mind you.. I'm no electronics geek so me saying "it's a blown phase" is just an assumption.
shane
#8
If LRP have put in protection for reverse polarity that is great considering for reverse polarity protection it only requires a diode so it shorts the battery if its connected wrong, This works for ANY DC powered device but manufacturers dont often install them. May be a very good resale marketing ploy.......spend 2c extra on a product or sell another one after the first one was toasted.
#9
#10
Nah... didn't do that...
It just decided to pop... I initally thought that it was the motor but on further investigation it turned out to be the speedy.
If you hook up a motor to it.. it will still turn but makes a really really rough sound.. a bit like the prize wheel from Pluck a Duck spinning. And if the motor stops in the wrong place, it won't spin up unless you give it a little help, then it goes again.
Mind you.. I'm no electronics geek so me saying "it's a blown phase" is just an assumption.
It just decided to pop... I initally thought that it was the motor but on further investigation it turned out to be the speedy.
If you hook up a motor to it.. it will still turn but makes a really really rough sound.. a bit like the prize wheel from Pluck a Duck spinning. And if the motor stops in the wrong place, it won't spin up unless you give it a little help, then it goes again.
Mind you.. I'm no electronics geek so me saying "it's a blown phase" is just an assumption.
It has nothing to do with the sensor cable It has blown some of the mosfets on the board Thats why it needs a kick start to function .Basically the mosfets for phase 1 which is your start up phase were 100% of the current is sent to is burnt out .When your external caps failed the internal mosfets popped .Better to send it back to LRP.I have had this issue in the past with other speed controllers but basically all speedys have the same basic concept.
See your external cap board does three things 1.filters spikes like a voltage clamp .2.controls the ripple current so the average voltage available to the esc is close to the battery volatage 3.Also filter out radio inteferance noise exampl distortion.See so once your cap borad dies then your esc has no protection.
Last edited by COBRARACING; 07-19-2010 at 03:20 AM.
#11
It is exactly the same as the issue I had with my LRP Sphere Comp, which occured due to reverse polarity strangely enough. Anyway, I did some research and someone on this forum gave me a company in Tasmania called Industrial Tecnik. I sent them an email some months back and got no response, but they are techs like yourself so I just put it down to poor communication skills , sorry couldn't resist the nerd ref. Anyway, I am going to call them on the phone this week to check if they are still able to repair. As my sister has just moved to Launceston and is coming back in August for a visit I thought I would give to her to take back with her, just for a bit more peace of mind.
So I will let you know how I go. I can probably get yours from you this wekend if they are still able to do repairs.
Here is the website if you are interested: http://www.teknik.com.au/index.html
Nick
#13
sorry to butt in... but the same sorta thing happened with my GTB...
#14
Might just bite the bullet and send it OS...
#15
I tried that line, you have to go through Frontline and they won't repair it and they will make it very difficult for you to get them to send it to LRP for you. If you try and go direct LRP just send you back to Frontline and don't try and just send it to them without telling them, they just make you pay for the return mail and go to Frontline again. It is a little like dealing with a bank in Mumbai!