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Old 02-04-2007, 02:58 AM
  #46  
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Here's a solution - buy an LRP. They've got the markings that you can line up.

Blue is Better!

(although we were talking about stock originally and no sign from LRP just yet.....)
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Old 02-04-2007, 03:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Eggyolkeo
Here's a solution - buy an LRP. They've got the markings that you can line up.

Blue is Better!

(although we were talking about stock originally and no sign from LRP just yet.....)
Up ya bum Popy!
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Old 02-05-2007, 02:10 AM
  #48  
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Now this gets a bit strange, just checked mine out and it doesn't have any movement available that I can see. The three screws that hold the black end cover on a have very little to no movement through the plates here.
I will check it again tomorrow when I have more time, but could this mean there are more than one 13.5 motor about ?
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Old 02-05-2007, 02:36 AM
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The end cap and terminal plate don't move, only the notched black ring closest to the motor can. It can require a little more "force" as it can bind a little.
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Old 02-05-2007, 06:39 AM
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Checked mine, was about half a mm out, still puzzled on gearing, I seem to have settled one tooth BELOW what I run a CO27 at with similar results. Any thoughts?

Presently running 20/70 in a TA05 (Run a CO27 at 21 and a Sports Tuned at 23) Motor getting to around 135 degrees with a Much More Cooling fan on a heatsink. Using LRP Speedy (so no Blue wire on the speedy)
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Old 02-06-2007, 01:27 AM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by nexxus
Checked mine, was about half a mm out, still puzzled on gearing, I seem to have settled one tooth BELOW what I run a CO27 at with similar results. Any thoughts?

Presently running 20/70 in a TA05 (Run a CO27 at 21 and a Sports Tuned at 23) Motor getting to around 135 degrees with a Much More Cooling fan on a heatsink. Using LRP Speedy (so no Blue wire on the speedy)
Are you running at a small track? (7.8:1 FDR is pretty low for CO27) if so i think thats why the difference in your gear ratio with your brushed motor is not much because in either case both your motors are restricted from reving further to create more power and speed due to the lenth of the track.
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Old 02-06-2007, 01:36 AM
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Originally Posted by X5 Addict
The end cap and terminal plate don't move, only the notched black ring closest to the motor can. It can require a little more "force" as it can bind a little.
i havent actually taken that end off before, and have an enquiry for you

what are the chances of me moving the timing if i was to remove the black end cap to lube the rear bearing?

as i have just purchased a brand new 13.5 and would really like to lube the rear bearing before i use it and also to advise other people about it at the track
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Old 02-06-2007, 01:44 AM
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Originally Posted by BrainTeased
i havent actually taken that end off before, and have an enquiry for you

what are the chances of me moving the timing if i was to remove the black end cap to lube the rear bearing?

as i have just purchased a brand new 13.5 and would really like to lube the rear bearing before i use it and also to advise other people about it at the track
Mark both the notched black ring and the can before you disassemble and then you won't go wrong. I am really spewing I didn't know this before I pulled the motors apart!!!

I'm still waiting on a reply from Novak about setting the timing.
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Old 02-06-2007, 02:33 AM
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Originally Posted by BrainTeased
i havent actually taken that end off before, and have an enquiry for you

what are the chances of me moving the timing if i was to remove the black end cap to lube the rear bearing?

as i have just purchased a brand new 13.5 and would really like to lube the rear bearing before i use it and also to advise other people about it at the track
No worries - take out the 3 screws and remove the outer black cap and lube teh bearing. While you've got teh black cap off drill a small hole just off centre then you can oil the bearing as much as you like without taking the cap off again.
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Old 02-06-2007, 10:56 AM
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Received this answer from Charlie at Novak USA this morning...

"Hello Sir,

Well unfortunately it is not that simple. I would be very interested to hear how that theory has come about though....

We use a fairly involved machine to set timing on the motors. There is really no accurate way to reset them to factory defaults unfortunately.

Typically you have to "try" to move the timing. If you don't actually put your hands on it to turn it it stays put."



So guys it's a shame there's no way of setting with a meter or something....
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Old 02-07-2007, 01:13 AM
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maybe its adjusted by feeling on the track? adjust it to such position that will give you the best performance and coolest temp? but how much can be adjusted 2-5mm or more? but in saying that if charlie says the timing wont move unless you move it everyone should be fine

and thats a good idea heavy
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Old 02-07-2007, 01:18 AM
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Yeh I wish I hadn't moved it! well, I didn't mean to in the first place! Yeh probably have to run to get the sweet spot!!
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Old 02-07-2007, 01:28 AM
  #58  
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hope you dont mind me asking, but how did you end up moving it? to try and get that black cap off?
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Old 02-07-2007, 02:23 AM
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I took both ends off to blow any dust out that gets into the windings. Must have moved then
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Old 02-08-2007, 02:05 AM
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I lubed my rear bearing this evening i just couldnt delay this process any longer haha. I marked it all with liquid paper and to my suprize nothing moved
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