2014 Vintage Festival at Castle Hill Off Road September 27 & 28
02-20-2014, 10:57 PM
#1
2014 Vintage Festival at Castle Hill Off Road September 27 & 28
Hello all Vintage RC car enthusiasts!! The Castle Hill Off Road committee is proud to announce that it will be hosting the 2014 Vintage Festival on September 27 and 28
This year as with last we have been listening to feedback and looking at class numbers (the best feedback there is) so in the efforts of tweaking the event to make it even better this year, here is a summary of the changes
Pipe frame – We’ve struggled with low numbers for a few years, but rather than put the bullet to it we’ve expanded the class to include chain driven 4wds such as early optimas/rockys/javelins etc
Plastic clarification: We’ve tidied up the regs for the plastic class just to make it clear that the only modifications allowed are different springs and wheel/tyres. All internal gearbox components must be factory standard and the maximum pinion allowable is the largest pinion indicated in the manual, no dremelling of the gearbox to shove bigger pinions in.
Classic buggy on ice for the moment: with the low numbers attracted to this class in the last few years, we’ve elected to pull the classic 4wd and 2wd classes off the schedule for this year in lieu of some new and exciting classes below. But don’t worry, all is not lost. The 4wd class in 2013 was a bunch of top forces (evos and normal spec) and a vintage eligible Lazer and a Schumacher. We’ve therefore moved the top force evo into vintage class so it will be on for young and old!! (mainly old). With regards to 2wd, sadly B2’s and XX’s wont get a run but the jrx pro fitted with the LRM tranny is vintage legal
****NEWS FLASH!!! – Exciting new classes****
2wd stock Purist: new addition to the 2014 festival. This class is for those racers that love the purity of racing how it used to be. Two categories of car are eligible for this class.(originals and plastics) all cars must run on original tyres
-The originals: stock original ultimas (ladder type chassis) and stock gold pan short arm rc10s (re-re eligible) – Cars must be original; 6 gear transmission in the RC10, standard tranny in the Ultima, original shocks.
-The plastic cars: may be fitted with option parts that must have been available to buy for your car. No handmade pivot blocks so you can fit rc10 arms to your frog etc but hot trick, thorp and crp parts for example are all fine for this class, camber may be adjustable and shocks may be upgraded as may gearbox components but please don’t throw a stealth transmission on the back of your FAV
Truck (Vintage Open, Vintage 540 & Classic Open): Oh no I hear you say, don’t change the truck class, it was awesome last year!!! Yes you’re right, it was awesome, but what could be more awesome than 1 truck class?? 3 truck classes!! Yes you read it correctly. We’ve had our thinking caps on over the break and we were looking for ways to include more of the earlier and entry level models (Blitzers and king cabs) so we figured lets create a 540 truck class as well as still running Vintage truck open. Vintage Truck 540 is an experimental class but we thought the best way to level out the playing field was to drop the power and pull the trigger.
The other class that will be available on the Sunday now is Classic truck open. This will give you a chance to dust off that old T2 or XXT or preferably that old Pro-XRT, Storm 2000 or SRT and put whatever motor you like in it and run hard. As usual, classes with less than 5 entries a month out from the event will be cancelled, the beauty of the structure of the truck classes is if numbers are struggling in one, you’ll be able to move into another class easily and also remember that if you want to run your vintage truck twice over the weekend, there’s no reason why you cant run it in Classic Truck on the Sunday or throw a 540 in it and run vintage truck 540
We also want to mention that if you have multiple cars eligible for a class, please feel free to run them all during the day, if you have 6 x 2wd vintage cars setup, run a different one each race!
Entry fees will be $20 for the 1st class, $15 for the second and $10 per additional class after that, you can enter up to 3 classes per day.
*** Edit*** Online entries now open! ! Please visit the link below!!
http://www.bugleboysoftware.com/vintageentry/
The BBQ will be running for lunch as per usual and cold drinks will be available all day
Drivers meeting 730am
******Racing will START at 8am SHARP on BOTH days******
The events to be held on Saturday are:
• 2wd Vintage Stock
• 2wd Vintage Open
• 2wd Purist Stock
• Vintage Truck Open
• Plastic fantastic
The events to be held on Sunday are:
• 4wd Stock Vintage
• 4wd Open Vintage
• Vintage Truck 540
• Classic Truck Open
• Pipe Frame / Chain drive
• Hotshot
Categories for Vintage racing are:
• VINTAGE Buggy: Cut off date December 31, 1991. 2wd and 4wd classes - open and stock
• VINTAGE Truck: Cut off date December 31, 1993. Open motor
• CLASSIC Truck: Cut off date December 31, 1996. Open motor
• PLASTIC Fantastic: Cut off date December 31, 1988. Stock motor
Category motor basics:
• STOCK – *edit* Handout motor see below info
• OPEN – any motor - brushed or brushless.
Category Batteries:
• Hard case Li-Po 7.4 v nominal voltage maximum.
• Sub-C cells. 7.2 v nominal voltage maximum
Class specific guidelines:
Eligible Vintage Truck entries:
Truck class cut-off is nominated as end of 1993 for vintage classification. Motor is open in truck class.
Eligible cars for the HOTSHOT Class are:
• Hot Shot
• Boomerang
• Super Shot
• Big Wig
• Hot Shot II
• Super Sabre
The eligible buggies for the Hot Shot class are limited to the above mentioned buggies only. The motor for this class is the Mabuchi/Johnson RS540. (Same as the stock class). The aim for this class it that someone could buy a re-release kit and go racing merely by finding the right pinion (17 tooth maximum) and modern tyres so the cars should remain as stock as possible, standard cva shocks must be used, all internal gearbox components must be standard . Interchanging of parts between these cars is fine. ALL cars must retain a strong resemblance to the original buggy where possible (period correct aftermarket bodies are acceptable). Tyres and wheels are open and upgrading to bearings is fine.
Eligible cars for Plastic Fantastic Class:
Any car that was released with fixed camber front and rear up to the end of 1988. Solid axle buggies like the Hornet and Grasshopper are also included in the class. Basically this class is for entry level buggies. Springs can be changed, but the car must retain original shocks. All internal gearbox components must be factory standard and the maximum pinion allowable is the largest pinion indicated in the manual, no dremelling of the gearbox to shove bigger pinions in. No other modifications or option parts are allowed. Buggies that have been modified to have adjustable camber should be entered in the 2wd purist class. The motor for this class is the Mabuchi/Johnson RS540. (Same as the stock class).Tyres and wheels are open
Eligible cars for 2wd Purist Class:
This class harks back to the classic battle of the 1987 worlds. Kyosho had brought out the Ultima with a pledge that it would beat Associated’s all-conquering RC10 and win the Worlds that year (which it did). So the class is limited to RC10 Gold pan (short arm/6 gear-no mods or hop ups – rere allowed), original “ladder chassis” Kyosho Ultima (no mods or hop ups) and plastic fantastic cars (period option parts allowed). All cars must run on original tyres and the Mabuchi/Johnson RS540 is the motor for this class
Handout motors
Hi Guys
Just a quick post asking everyone to hold off on purchasing 540 motors for the festival as there will be a handout 540 motor this years’ event. Originally the 540 class was left pretty simple so it made it easy for everyone to “give it a go”. Now the event is having a wider appeal our aim is to ensure everyone is competing on a level playing field.
We understand the potential that it makes the event look too serious, we actually believe it will add to the relaxed nature of the event as its one less thing to worry about, you know that the guy next to you has an identical motor
I have discussed this with a few of the key guys (Ed, Rob, Baggz, Bormac and Wiggy). The consensus is a handout motor is the best solution. I do understand it’s an extra cost but you’ll only buy the max number of 540s you’d need for 1 day (i.e. you reuse the motors you use on Saturday for Sunday, so if you’re running 2 classes with 540 on Saturday and 2 x 540 classes on Sunday, you’d only buy 2 motors and you hand them back Saturday afternoon and pop them in on the Sunday morning. Also you will be able to hand the motors back at the end of the meeting, we'll store them for you for the year and you can have them back next year, so you don't have to pay for motors again!.) Extra motors will be available to purchase from race control on the day, though expect to pay a premium if you cooked yours due to over-gearing, lol
We’re also asking that the motors don’t get “run-in” by any method and no comm-drops are to be used at all during the event. Simply pick them up from race control, oil the bushings and bolt them into the car. Simple maintenance such as cleaning the motor and oiling of the bushes is fine.
We have locked in a supply of the motors, they will be $14 per motor
GENERAL GUIDELINES FOR VINTAGE:
The main aim of these events is to have fun obviously, but a part of that fun is feeling like everyone is competing in the same spirit of the event. With that in mind, the cut off is there for a reason and the concept is pretty simple regarding modifications. If the modification involves changing the geometry of the car ie 1992 shock towers give a better/different geometry to the 1991 ones, then they shouldn’t be on the car. However, if it’s the case that the upgrade is purely a reliability one ie using a 92 slipper on a 91 car to protect the drive train or stronger belts, then it is deemed ok, but don’t replace the whole transmission with a unit from a later model in the name of reliability. If the item is both stronger and changes geometry, not allowed
Please look at the attached documents for a list of what cars fit into what category.
Unless specific class requirements state otherwise, the fitting of later model shocks, wheels and tyres and other small parts are acceptable – as sometimes they are simply impossible to find and/or maintain. We need to keep the cost of racing a vintage buggy reasonable.
DRIVING STANDARDS AND ETIQUETTE:
We understand that a lot of vintage enthusiasts aren’t well seasoned racers, which is why it’s great to get a chance to get everyone out on the track with fellow minded people who all have a respect for these old machines. The driving standards have been excellent over the last couple of years, with a lot of respect being show on track for these rare cars whilst still maintaining high level competitive racing :
• NO SWEARING AT THE MARSHALS – they didn’t crash your car – you did!! It’s ok to talk loudly to attract their attention (they are probably fixated on the cool vintage buggies) – but don’t swear or be aggressive towards them. Remember – you are a marshal too – or will be!!
• If a faster car is coming up to lap you – just move slightly off line - or let them know that you are letting them through. This avoids damage to our precious vintage buggies and allows you, as the slower driver, to learn the lines of the faster driver. Crashing, and taking both of you out, only slows the both of you down…..easier to just be courteous.
• Be ready for your race, the sooner you are ready – the sooner we can start – giving more free time for everyone! We understand that having a chat about the good old days is fun, but we really want to make sure that everyone gets enough racing in. If you intend on entering the maximum 3 classes per day please plan ahead so you have your cars ready and down at the track at the beginning of the round so you can race then marshal and then grab your car ready to race again. We’ve found we lose a lot of time with people having to run back to their tables to grab the next car etc.
• Please don’t be aggressive with your driving or other competitors. We all understand the value of the cars we’ll be running dangerous moves are not worth it.
We will be having approximately 4 minutes between each race – as there are lots of us running multiple classes
MVP - On Sunday afternoon we will present the trophy for MVP (Most Vintage Pride). This will be an entirely subjective award which will come down to biggest effort for the weekend so it will encompass thing such as (but not limited to) display vehicles/arrangement, attire, attitude, competing in the spirit of the event, tallest stories about the good old days, rarity of vehicles raced etc. Being No.1 on the track won't make you the MVP. Being No.1 in the pits will! Wiggy took it out last year. Who will be our MVP in 2014 ?
******PLEASE NOTE: IF we have less than 5 entries for any given class 4 weeks before the event, we will have to cancel that class*******
More details on the specific timings of races and their finer details will come in following posts.
ELECTRONIC on-line entries will be opened 2 months out from the event via the Castle Hill Clubs on line facility.
*Edit - added eligible truck and buggy lists
This year as with last we have been listening to feedback and looking at class numbers (the best feedback there is) so in the efforts of tweaking the event to make it even better this year, here is a summary of the changes
Pipe frame – We’ve struggled with low numbers for a few years, but rather than put the bullet to it we’ve expanded the class to include chain driven 4wds such as early optimas/rockys/javelins etc
Plastic clarification: We’ve tidied up the regs for the plastic class just to make it clear that the only modifications allowed are different springs and wheel/tyres. All internal gearbox components must be factory standard and the maximum pinion allowable is the largest pinion indicated in the manual, no dremelling of the gearbox to shove bigger pinions in.
Classic buggy on ice for the moment: with the low numbers attracted to this class in the last few years, we’ve elected to pull the classic 4wd and 2wd classes off the schedule for this year in lieu of some new and exciting classes below. But don’t worry, all is not lost. The 4wd class in 2013 was a bunch of top forces (evos and normal spec) and a vintage eligible Lazer and a Schumacher. We’ve therefore moved the top force evo into vintage class so it will be on for young and old!! (mainly old). With regards to 2wd, sadly B2’s and XX’s wont get a run but the jrx pro fitted with the LRM tranny is vintage legal
****NEWS FLASH!!! – Exciting new classes****
2wd stock Purist: new addition to the 2014 festival. This class is for those racers that love the purity of racing how it used to be. Two categories of car are eligible for this class.(originals and plastics) all cars must run on original tyres
-The originals: stock original ultimas (ladder type chassis) and stock gold pan short arm rc10s (re-re eligible) – Cars must be original; 6 gear transmission in the RC10, standard tranny in the Ultima, original shocks.
-The plastic cars: may be fitted with option parts that must have been available to buy for your car. No handmade pivot blocks so you can fit rc10 arms to your frog etc but hot trick, thorp and crp parts for example are all fine for this class, camber may be adjustable and shocks may be upgraded as may gearbox components but please don’t throw a stealth transmission on the back of your FAV
Truck (Vintage Open, Vintage 540 & Classic Open): Oh no I hear you say, don’t change the truck class, it was awesome last year!!! Yes you’re right, it was awesome, but what could be more awesome than 1 truck class?? 3 truck classes!! Yes you read it correctly. We’ve had our thinking caps on over the break and we were looking for ways to include more of the earlier and entry level models (Blitzers and king cabs) so we figured lets create a 540 truck class as well as still running Vintage truck open. Vintage Truck 540 is an experimental class but we thought the best way to level out the playing field was to drop the power and pull the trigger.
The other class that will be available on the Sunday now is Classic truck open. This will give you a chance to dust off that old T2 or XXT or preferably that old Pro-XRT, Storm 2000 or SRT and put whatever motor you like in it and run hard. As usual, classes with less than 5 entries a month out from the event will be cancelled, the beauty of the structure of the truck classes is if numbers are struggling in one, you’ll be able to move into another class easily and also remember that if you want to run your vintage truck twice over the weekend, there’s no reason why you cant run it in Classic Truck on the Sunday or throw a 540 in it and run vintage truck 540
We also want to mention that if you have multiple cars eligible for a class, please feel free to run them all during the day, if you have 6 x 2wd vintage cars setup, run a different one each race!
Entry fees will be $20 for the 1st class, $15 for the second and $10 per additional class after that, you can enter up to 3 classes per day.
*** Edit*** Online entries now open! ! Please visit the link below!!
http://www.bugleboysoftware.com/vintageentry/
The BBQ will be running for lunch as per usual and cold drinks will be available all day
Drivers meeting 730am
******Racing will START at 8am SHARP on BOTH days******
The events to be held on Saturday are:
• 2wd Vintage Stock
• 2wd Vintage Open
• 2wd Purist Stock
• Vintage Truck Open
• Plastic fantastic
The events to be held on Sunday are:
• 4wd Stock Vintage
• 4wd Open Vintage
• Vintage Truck 540
• Classic Truck Open
• Pipe Frame / Chain drive
• Hotshot
Categories for Vintage racing are:
• VINTAGE Buggy: Cut off date December 31, 1991. 2wd and 4wd classes - open and stock
• VINTAGE Truck: Cut off date December 31, 1993. Open motor
• CLASSIC Truck: Cut off date December 31, 1996. Open motor
• PLASTIC Fantastic: Cut off date December 31, 1988. Stock motor
Category motor basics:
• STOCK – *edit* Handout motor see below info
• OPEN – any motor - brushed or brushless.
Category Batteries:
• Hard case Li-Po 7.4 v nominal voltage maximum.
• Sub-C cells. 7.2 v nominal voltage maximum
Class specific guidelines:
Eligible Vintage Truck entries:
Truck class cut-off is nominated as end of 1993 for vintage classification. Motor is open in truck class.
Eligible cars for the HOTSHOT Class are:
• Hot Shot
• Boomerang
• Super Shot
• Big Wig
• Hot Shot II
• Super Sabre
The eligible buggies for the Hot Shot class are limited to the above mentioned buggies only. The motor for this class is the Mabuchi/Johnson RS540. (Same as the stock class). The aim for this class it that someone could buy a re-release kit and go racing merely by finding the right pinion (17 tooth maximum) and modern tyres so the cars should remain as stock as possible, standard cva shocks must be used, all internal gearbox components must be standard . Interchanging of parts between these cars is fine. ALL cars must retain a strong resemblance to the original buggy where possible (period correct aftermarket bodies are acceptable). Tyres and wheels are open and upgrading to bearings is fine.
Eligible cars for Plastic Fantastic Class:
Any car that was released with fixed camber front and rear up to the end of 1988. Solid axle buggies like the Hornet and Grasshopper are also included in the class. Basically this class is for entry level buggies. Springs can be changed, but the car must retain original shocks. All internal gearbox components must be factory standard and the maximum pinion allowable is the largest pinion indicated in the manual, no dremelling of the gearbox to shove bigger pinions in. No other modifications or option parts are allowed. Buggies that have been modified to have adjustable camber should be entered in the 2wd purist class. The motor for this class is the Mabuchi/Johnson RS540. (Same as the stock class).Tyres and wheels are open
Eligible cars for 2wd Purist Class:
This class harks back to the classic battle of the 1987 worlds. Kyosho had brought out the Ultima with a pledge that it would beat Associated’s all-conquering RC10 and win the Worlds that year (which it did). So the class is limited to RC10 Gold pan (short arm/6 gear-no mods or hop ups – rere allowed), original “ladder chassis” Kyosho Ultima (no mods or hop ups) and plastic fantastic cars (period option parts allowed). All cars must run on original tyres and the Mabuchi/Johnson RS540 is the motor for this class
Handout motors
Hi Guys
Just a quick post asking everyone to hold off on purchasing 540 motors for the festival as there will be a handout 540 motor this years’ event. Originally the 540 class was left pretty simple so it made it easy for everyone to “give it a go”. Now the event is having a wider appeal our aim is to ensure everyone is competing on a level playing field.
We understand the potential that it makes the event look too serious, we actually believe it will add to the relaxed nature of the event as its one less thing to worry about, you know that the guy next to you has an identical motor
I have discussed this with a few of the key guys (Ed, Rob, Baggz, Bormac and Wiggy). The consensus is a handout motor is the best solution. I do understand it’s an extra cost but you’ll only buy the max number of 540s you’d need for 1 day (i.e. you reuse the motors you use on Saturday for Sunday, so if you’re running 2 classes with 540 on Saturday and 2 x 540 classes on Sunday, you’d only buy 2 motors and you hand them back Saturday afternoon and pop them in on the Sunday morning. Also you will be able to hand the motors back at the end of the meeting, we'll store them for you for the year and you can have them back next year, so you don't have to pay for motors again!.) Extra motors will be available to purchase from race control on the day, though expect to pay a premium if you cooked yours due to over-gearing, lol
We’re also asking that the motors don’t get “run-in” by any method and no comm-drops are to be used at all during the event. Simply pick them up from race control, oil the bushings and bolt them into the car. Simple maintenance such as cleaning the motor and oiling of the bushes is fine.
We have locked in a supply of the motors, they will be $14 per motor
GENERAL GUIDELINES FOR VINTAGE:
The main aim of these events is to have fun obviously, but a part of that fun is feeling like everyone is competing in the same spirit of the event. With that in mind, the cut off is there for a reason and the concept is pretty simple regarding modifications. If the modification involves changing the geometry of the car ie 1992 shock towers give a better/different geometry to the 1991 ones, then they shouldn’t be on the car. However, if it’s the case that the upgrade is purely a reliability one ie using a 92 slipper on a 91 car to protect the drive train or stronger belts, then it is deemed ok, but don’t replace the whole transmission with a unit from a later model in the name of reliability. If the item is both stronger and changes geometry, not allowed
Please look at the attached documents for a list of what cars fit into what category.
Unless specific class requirements state otherwise, the fitting of later model shocks, wheels and tyres and other small parts are acceptable – as sometimes they are simply impossible to find and/or maintain. We need to keep the cost of racing a vintage buggy reasonable.
DRIVING STANDARDS AND ETIQUETTE:
We understand that a lot of vintage enthusiasts aren’t well seasoned racers, which is why it’s great to get a chance to get everyone out on the track with fellow minded people who all have a respect for these old machines. The driving standards have been excellent over the last couple of years, with a lot of respect being show on track for these rare cars whilst still maintaining high level competitive racing :
• NO SWEARING AT THE MARSHALS – they didn’t crash your car – you did!! It’s ok to talk loudly to attract their attention (they are probably fixated on the cool vintage buggies) – but don’t swear or be aggressive towards them. Remember – you are a marshal too – or will be!!
• If a faster car is coming up to lap you – just move slightly off line - or let them know that you are letting them through. This avoids damage to our precious vintage buggies and allows you, as the slower driver, to learn the lines of the faster driver. Crashing, and taking both of you out, only slows the both of you down…..easier to just be courteous.
• Be ready for your race, the sooner you are ready – the sooner we can start – giving more free time for everyone! We understand that having a chat about the good old days is fun, but we really want to make sure that everyone gets enough racing in. If you intend on entering the maximum 3 classes per day please plan ahead so you have your cars ready and down at the track at the beginning of the round so you can race then marshal and then grab your car ready to race again. We’ve found we lose a lot of time with people having to run back to their tables to grab the next car etc.
• Please don’t be aggressive with your driving or other competitors. We all understand the value of the cars we’ll be running dangerous moves are not worth it.
We will be having approximately 4 minutes between each race – as there are lots of us running multiple classes
MVP - On Sunday afternoon we will present the trophy for MVP (Most Vintage Pride). This will be an entirely subjective award which will come down to biggest effort for the weekend so it will encompass thing such as (but not limited to) display vehicles/arrangement, attire, attitude, competing in the spirit of the event, tallest stories about the good old days, rarity of vehicles raced etc. Being No.1 on the track won't make you the MVP. Being No.1 in the pits will! Wiggy took it out last year. Who will be our MVP in 2014 ?
******PLEASE NOTE: IF we have less than 5 entries for any given class 4 weeks before the event, we will have to cancel that class*******
More details on the specific timings of races and their finer details will come in following posts.
ELECTRONIC on-line entries will be opened 2 months out from the event via the Castle Hill Clubs on line facility.
*Edit - added eligible truck and buggy lists
Last edited by NOFX; 07-30-2014 at 01:15 AM. Reason: handout motors
02-21-2014, 12:04 AM
#3
Cheers
mikey
02-21-2014, 03:52 PM
#5
m
wow kool info mikey can i get a flyer to photo copy and post a few around town,
hi baggz looking forward to that bbq lol hows wilbur going
hi baggz looking forward to that bbq lol hows wilbur going
02-22-2014, 04:37 AM
#8
I'm very keen to run my RC10 Gold Pan (thanks Ed) in Purist but what tyres can I use? Is it just that you have to use the original rims and therefore are limited to tyres that will fit those rims? i.e 2.0 tyres?
02-24-2014, 11:57 PM
#10
yes the idea is that the car must use original size rims and therefore the original tyres. No 2.2s on these things. And losi 2.0 step pins won't cut it either, we're talking the original hard knobbly tyres, tamiyas will be on their original rubber (mainly oval blocks)
03-02-2014, 04:02 AM
#11
Hey Nick
yes the idea is that the car must use original size rims and therefore the original tyres. No 2.2s on these things. And losi 2.0 step pins won't cut it either, we're talking the original hard knobbly tyres, tamiyas will be on their original rubber (mainly oval blocks)
yes the idea is that the car must use original size rims and therefore the original tyres. No 2.2s on these things. And losi 2.0 step pins won't cut it either, we're talking the original hard knobbly tyres, tamiyas will be on their original rubber (mainly oval blocks)
Nah will have to be atleast a 5.5t, I think the gearbox can handle it since it's got the same diff as a T4.
