HS56HB and RC18T

Just upgraded to the HS56HB servo for my RC18t. Purchased the required AE21049 servo kit. After installation, the screw for the bell crank hits the servo housing. Is this a common problem? I looked on the AE web site and it apears that I'm assembling it correctly. The stock AE servo has a different housing for the servo which allows the bell crank to have clearance. I searched the web sites and found an individual who swapped the bell crank/drag link to the upper position and moved the ball stud to the lower position. This does not work for me because if I do that, the drag link hits the upper sub chasis. What am I missing???????

Just upgraded to the HS56HB servo for my RC18t. Purchased the required AE21049 servo kit. After installation, the screw for the bell crank hits the servo housing. Is this a common problem? I looked on the AE web site and it apears that I'm assembling it correctly. The stock AE servo has a different housing for the servo which allows the bell crank to have clearance. I searched the web sites and found an individual who swapped the bell crank/drag link to the upper position and moved the ball stud to the lower position. This does not work for me because if I do that, the drag link hits the upper sub chasis. What am I missing???????

Not quite sure what you're asking....
....but, if you are referencing that something hits at full throw keep in mind that seldom, if ever, will you need lock-to-lock steering - I only have about half of mine ever dialed in at any time

That's exactly what I'm seeing. I assemble the bell crank to the servo, and turn on my transmitter. If I turn lock to lock, I hit the servo housing. This doesn't happen with the stock AE servo. I didn't want to place this into my truck and strip gears right away. But it sounds like this is normal?? ( have patience, new at RCing)

As I mentioned, I'm not quite sure you're saying where exactly it is hitting?

Is it a matter of re-aligning the mount of the connetion arm?

Or is it just a matter of trimming a small amount away from the servo housing with an exacto knife to gain a small amount of clearance. The HiTecs have a nob/tab sort of thing on the top in which a little can be clearanced without hurting anything.

Sorry, I'd look at one of my own RC18s - but I don't have them in front of me.

The screw for the bell crank hits the top of the servo housing even before I get to the "end" position on the servo ( both left and right turns). I would have to carve out an area that is as deep as the head of the screw. I'll install it as is and see how much steering I have. All I hear is that it's a direct replacement and it's not looking like that.

Gosh, I don't know. As I mentioned I DO have these on mine - and I don't remember such an issue, or if there was it only took a little trimming.
There again, as I mentioned, I don't have mine set where I come anywhere close to having them set so they go to the "end postion" in either direction - and, at least part of the reason is that the hardest one can be on a servo (and wear it out the fastest) is using it/setting it so that throw to either side extends all the way to it's end position (or full throw).

Here again, as I alluded earlier, some people have had issues installing OTHER brands or models of servos in the RC18 - and the fix was to modify the servo mount by trimming a little away from the mount on both sides allowing more room for the servo and/or it's movement front to back during installation.


BUT, my feeling is that you're expecting the throw to be total (or full) in comparison to how it was stock - and it's just not needed. Set the transmitter, and put a mark on it, that is at full throw - and then put everything together and give it a go. My guess is that you'll still have plenty of steering, and might even need to dial some out.